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Dom Pérignon spent his career trying to get the bubbles out

Sparkling wine was described in England before the French monk is supposed to have invented it. In Champagne at the time, bubbles were a fault that broke bottles.

Three enamel pots with colorful lids on a table with fresh vegetables and greens.
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Both approaches to the invention of sparkling wine work. What differs is what they cost you, and the cost is what this sets out.

The difference in one place

  • A paper describing deliberate sparkling wine was presented in England in the 1660s.
  • Bubbles caused exploding bottles and were treated as a defect in the region.
  • The monk's role in the story grew through nineteenth-century promotion.

What the monk actually did

He was a cellar master at an abbey in Champagne in the late seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries, responsible for the quality of its wine. His documented contributions concern blending grapes from different plots, handling black grapes to produce pale juice, and improving pressing.

Those are substantial technical achievements and they shaped the region's winemaking considerably. The region at the time struggled with wines that restarted fermentation in spring, producing gas that burst bottles. Reducing that problem, rather than causing it, is what a cellar master of the period was trying to achieve.

The exploding bottle problem

A second fermentation inside a sealed bottle produces carbon dioxide, and the pressure that builds is considerable. Glass of the period was frequently not strong enough, and losses in the cellar could run to a large share of the stock. Workers reportedly wore protective masks when handling stored bottles, because a single failure could set off others.

Trace it back and in that context, bubbles were not a delicacy but an accountancy disaster. The transformation of the fault into the product is the actual story, and it took decades and better glass.

The English paper

In the 1660s an English physician presented a paper describing the deliberate addition of sugar to wine to make it sparkle. That is a description of the essential technique, recorded before the period in which the monk is supposed to have invented it.

England also had a practical advantage in stronger glass, produced using coal-fired furnaces that reached higher temperatures. Stronger bottles meant sparkling wine could be stored rather than lost, which is the difference between a fault and a product. None of this makes England the inventor either, since fermentation restarting in bottle was happening wherever wine was bottled young.

Where the legend came from

The attribution to the monk grew substantially in the nineteenth century, promoted by the abbey and later by producers. The famous line about tasting stars, supposedly exclaimed at the moment of discovery, appears in advertising material of that later period. A named founder with a vivid origin moment is enormously valuable to a luxury product, and Champagne has marketed itself brilliantly for two centuries.

The primary source says otherwise: the story is not a fraud so much as a promotional simplification that displaced a more distributed history.

It is a genuinely instructive case, because the marketing is documented and the timeline is checkable.

How the method actually developed

Controlling the second fermentation required understanding sugar quantities, which arrived with better measurement in the nineteenth century. Removing the sediment produced by that fermentation required the development of riddling and disgorging techniques over decades. Both were incremental improvements by many people across the region, several of whom are documented.

Where the story actually begins, the result is a method with a long collective development history and no single inventor. That is how most technologies actually arrive, which is precisely why founder stories are so appealing.

Some of these are genuinely unsettled, and saying so is more honest than picking a side.

What to notice in the glass

Bubble size and persistence depend on pressure, on the glass surface, and on how the wine was made rather than on quality alone. The bubbles form at imperfections in the glass, which is why a perfectly smooth flute can produce fewer of them. Serving temperature affects how quickly carbon dioxide escapes, with colder wine holding it longer.

A wide coupe loses gas faster than a narrow glass, purely because of the exposed surface area. All of which is physics that the monk was trying to prevent from happening in the first place.

Side by side

ConsiderationWhat it means in practice
What the monk actually didA paper describing deliberate sparkling wine was presented in England in the 1660s.
The exploding bottle problemBubbles caused exploding bottles and were treated as a defect in the region.
The English paperThe monk's role in the story grew through nineteenth-century promotion.

The takeaway

The bubbles were a fault, the bottles were exploding, and the man credited with the invention was trying to stop it.

Ask who gained from the claim being repeated. That usually explains the rest.

Questions readers ask

Did he say he was tasting stars?

The line appears in promotional material from the nineteenth century, long after his death, with no contemporary source.

Who invented sparkling wine?

Nobody in particular. Accidental second fermentation happened wherever wine was bottled young, and the technique was refined by many people over a long period.

Food Mythswinehistorymarketingglassmaking
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Leela Mathews
Contributing writer, Virgin Myth

Leela writes about etymology and the invented origins people prefer.

Also by Leela Mathews